The Golden

The Golden, or Syrian, is the hamster most commonly kept as a pet. When most people talk about hamsters it is normally the Golden they are thinking about. Golden hamsters, as you may have guessed, are gold in colour on their backs with a white belly. However once these animals became popular people began selectively breeding them to produce many other colours. They are now available in colours, such as cream, cinnamon, silver, white, black and others. There are also a lot of different coat patterns to choose from. It is unlikely that these colours or patterns would be seen in the wild as the hamster would become more noticeable to the animals that prey on them and would not live long enough to pass its genes on.

Longhaired hamsters or those with short, velvety coats would not be found in the wild either. However these Teddy-bear hamsters have become quite popular. There are also longhaired and shorthaired rex hamsters with wavy coats. There are even completely bald hamsters available.

Some breeders believe, and are probably correct, that the most genetically sound hamster is the original golden. This is due to the fact that often, to fix certain characteristics, breeders will inbreed their stock, i.e. brother to sister, father to daughter, mother to son etc. In the long term this leads to genetic diseases becoming more commonplace and will eventually destroy the animals’ immune systems or even make them sterile.

The Dwarfs

As already mentioned, the golden, or Syrian, hamster is the one people are normally thinking about when they talk about hamsters. Today, however a relatively new pet is taking the hamster world by storm. These are dwarf hamsters, cute little critters whose popularity is growing by the day.

Dwarf hamsters can be anything from 2 to 4 inches in length. They have small delicate feet and have a compact ball-like physique. Unlike Golden hamsters dwarfs actually like to live with others like themselves. On the down side some owners have reported that dwarfs are more likely to nip you than Goldens. Others have said that while they may be more difficult to tame, they like the fact that they enjoy being with their own kind and are more entertaining to watch. Whether your hamster bites you or not is probably more down to the way in which the animal has been socialised than what type it is. The more positive the hamster’s association has been with humans, the less likely it is try to take a chunk out of you.

The Russians

In the early 1900’s W.C. Campbell discovered a small hamster species which bears his name today. Nowadays the Campbell’s dwarf is the most popular of the dwarf hamsters on the market. This hamster is also called the Russian, although it can also be found in China and Mongolia. Russian dwarfs have a soft coat and a dorsal stripe that runs down its back. It is small and round and can be found in many colour variations. It usually has a sleek shiny coat, like that of the Golden hamster.

As well as Mr Campbell’s Russian dwarf hamster, there is also one known as the Siberian dwarf. This type is smaller and is also called a winter white, as its grey coat will turn pure white if it is kept in a cool environment. Siberians are reported as being more friendly and quite easy to tame.

The Roborovski Dwarf

Another popular dwarf hamster is the Roborovski dwarf. These are the smallest of the dwarfs and there was an Olympics for hamsters they would be in the sprint events as they are the fastest hamsters out there. If you decide to spend time with your Roborovski outside its cage you will need to be extra careful and ensure it has no easy means of escape. Unlike the Russian, they do not have a stripe on their backs but they do have cute white eyebrows.

The Chinese Dwarf

Chinese dwarfs sort of look like mice. The main reason for this is their tails. They normally come in two colour variations, white with brown patches, or brown with a white dorsal stripe. Their bodies are long and thin. Chinese hamsters are not renowned for their friendliness so you will never know what you are going to end up with. It very much depends on how they were tamed when they were young. With this type it is important to find a breeder who has taken the time to hand tame their youngsters. This has become easier as Chinese dwarf hamsters are growing in popularity amongst the hamster keeping public.

When it comes to hamster care, all owners want the very best for their lovable little pets. There are many tips and tricks to making your hamster the happiest it can be. With a little bit of effort and a lot of love, you can give your hamster the absolute best life that it deserves!

Bedding

A hamster, like every animal on earth, loves to sleep! And he needs a comfortable bed. Most hamsters probably already know this, but it is worth repeating over and over again – you must never use pine or cedar shavings for bedding for hamsters, or any animal for that matter. This can be fatal to the animal. Alternatively, try aspen as it’s an ideal substance for hamsters. Don’t use cotton bedding at all, the hamster may eat the cotton and choke.

Treats

Hamsters love treats! A good apple, oatmeal or carrot treat will make your hamster happy. Try one at a time and you will eventually notice your hamster taking a preference to certain treats over others – these are his favorites!

Cleaning

Hamsters need a clean environment in their cage so that they can be happy and healthy. Diseases form when an environment is unkempt and dirty. You must always remove waste as quick as possible. Clean up old food scraps as well, especially if they tend to attract ants and flies. The best time to clean your hamster cage is in the morning or evening. Hamsters become active at night so you don’t want to be cleaning their cage during the day when they may be sleeping or resting.

Toys

Hamsters enjoy the good old fashioned hamster wheel. This can often be the only toy you place in the cage and your hamster will be more than happy. Some people like to remove the toy at bed time, although I don’t really believe this is necessary.

Socializing

It is not a good idea to mix hamsters together unless you want to breed them. They will usually end up fighting and may even kill one another. Stick to one hamster, or at least one hamster per cage.

Hamster care is not difficult at all. Sticking to these basic requirements will ensure that your hamster is happy and healthy and will bring you joy for years to come.

Hamsters belong to the rodent family. They have very sharp large incisors that grow continually throughout their lives. As a result they need to “file” them down by gnawing on something hard. If the incisors become too long the hamster will find it difficult to close its mouth or chew properly. They should therefore always have small pieces of wood available to chew on to keep the incisors the right length (not pine or cedar that are toxic to hamsters).

Hamsters have expandable cheek pouches formed by hard dry skin that they use to collect food and carry it to their dens. There is no saliva present in the pouches so that the food remains dry and fresh and does not deteriorate. Hamsters use their forelegs to empty their cheek pouches

The Hamster’s body is covered with thick soft hair that is usually darker on the back and lighter on belly. Unlike mice, hamsters normally have very short tails, except for Chinese hamsters that can have tails up to 2 cms long.

The forelegs of hamsters have four fingers with robust nails that they use to dig tunnels. Hamsters have quite prehensile fingers with which they are able to keep a firm hold on seeds while they nibble them. Hamsters also use their forelegs to groom themselves. They are first licked to dampen them and are then passed over the fur to clean and smooth it.

The rear legs are longer and more robust and have 5 fingers. The ears, are rather large, and externally are covered by a light body hairs, while inside they are hairless; while sleeping hamsters curl up to protect them.

Hamsters are mammals and to feed their babies (pups) they have 7 to 11 pairs of nipples that are only really visible when the hamster is newly born and hairless.

To distinguish between male and female hamsters we must look at the shape of the body (more rounded in females) and the distance between the genital organs and anus, which are closer together in the female than in the male.

Hamsters do not have dental issues very often, but if they do, they need the care of a veterinarian.  Prevention is often the best way to handle dental issues with your pet.

Malocclusion is a condition when a hamster’s incisor teeth are overgrown or are misaligned, resulting in having teeth that do not meet or align properly.  This condition can be hereditary, or it can be the result of trauma, infection or an improper diet.  (Feeding a hamster a steady diet of soft foods will result in this condition – he needs foods hard enough to wear his teeth down.)  It is difficult to detect this condition in young hamsters, so even with a visual inspection before you purchase a hamster, the condition could manifest later in life.  The teeth can appear normal when young, then become misaligned as the hamster matures.

Hamsters with this condition are, eventually,  not able to eat.  They suffer weight loss and die of starvation if not treated.  Aside from weight loss, look for threads of saliva around the mouth (sometimes wiped with the front paws) – a symptom usually referred to as slobbers.  If you notice these symptoms, you can check the teeth by pulling back the lips.

This condition is easily treated by a qualified veterinarian.  There are two types of treatment generally used.  The first is to clip the teeth while the hamster is awake.  This procedure does not always produce favorable long-term results, and can also cause other problems to occur.  An incisor can split or break, leaving jagged edges.  If the break goes to the gum line, it will cause pain and possibly allow bacteria to enter, possibly resulting in a painful abscess.  Jagged edges on the teeth can injure the hamster’s mouth and lips, possibly allowing bacteria to enter, and certainly causing discomfort and pain.

The second, and preferred, method is to use a high-speed drill.  Using a drill leaves a smooth surface and avoids the issues sometimes caused with clipping.  Most veterinarians currently use this method.

The best cure for dental issues is a healthy dose of prevention.  Make sure your hamster has food that is appropriate for hamsters.  This will include pellets that are hard enough to wear down the enamel of his teeth.

Chew toys (specially made for hamsters) can also be used.  These are usually made of wood and other materials that are safe for hamsters to chew.  (Do not use just any type of wood you find for your hamster.  Certain types of wood can be bad for your hamsters health.  Pieces of wood  you find around the house or outside may contain chemicals, parasites, insects or nails, or they might splinter and possibly cause injury if ingested.  Hamster toys are specifically made to avoid these issues.)

Periodic visual inspection of your hamster’s mouth can catch problems early and provide the best chance of successful treatment.   If you have any concerns, it is best to err on the side of caution and consult your veterinarian.

Wet tail is a common disease in hamsters, especially Syrian hamsters and hamsters who are weaning (from 4 to 7 weeks old).  It is a serious, life-threatening condition and should be treated promptly.  The disease can be fatal within 24 to 48 hours after symptoms first are shown.

Symptoms: Symptoms for wet tail include lethargy, hunched posture (or walking while hunching the back), irritability, diarrhea and wet, soiled fur around the anal area (which is where the disease gets its name).

Causes: Wet tail is primarily a disease caused by too much stress for your hamster.

Complications: If left untreated, wet tail can lead to rectal prolapse.  This is a condition caused by prolonged diarrhea and occurs when the walls of the rectum start to protrude through the anus and become visible outside of the hamster’s body.  If the condition is still left untreated, it can cause death.

Treatment: Your hamster’s veterinarian can prescribe medication for this condition.  There are several over-the-counter products that are inexpensive and effective when used properly and quickly.  These can be found at your local pet supply store and some chain retail stores.

Prevention: Prevention is truly the preferred way to handle wet tail.  Making sure your pet does not get it in the first place is much easier on your pet.  The key to remember is that stress is a huge factor in wet tail.  Keeping your pet as stress-free as possible is the best way to keep wet tail from happening to your pet.  With this in mind, follow these guidelines:

1. When you are bringing home a new hamster, make sure you have the cage already set up for him.  Have food, water and a nesting box in place, and be sure not to disturb your pet for a minimum of 2 or 3 days once you bring him home.  Keep new hamsters quarantined for at least 2 weeks before introducing them to the hamsters you already have.  Keep a new hamster away from excessive noise and activity.  (This means not to put him in the busiest room of the house.)
2. Make changes in diet or environment gradual and keep them to a minimum.  Avoid them completely if at all possible.
3. Keep your hamster’s cage clean.  Dirty cages are very stressful for hamsters.  Make sure you clean the cage at least once a week and wash it out and disinfect it at least once per month.
4. Keep a close watch on your hamster when it has a stressful event happen, such as the death of a house mate or when he is removed from his mother.  Try to make transitions as easy as possible.
5. Visually inspect your hamster once a day, if possible.  This does not have to be a thorough inspection, but at least check long enough to note any possible symptoms.  This is especially important if he has just gone through a stressful event.

Hamsters are an ideal pet for teaching and learning about a variety of subjects. They are suited for both the traditional classroom and for the homeschooling family.  Because of their small size, clean habits, quiet natures and minimal care needs, they are perfect for almost any educational situation.

First you must choose what type of hamster you want to have.  Syrian hamsters (also known as golden or teddy bear hamsters) must be kept alone in a housing unit.  If you want to keep more than one, you must have more than one cage or aquarium.  This can cause issue with space and monetary investment, especially with a traditional classroom.

Dwarf hamsters can be housed together if they have been raised together or are properly introduced to each other slowly.  Keep in mind that having a male/female pair will cause a population explosion.  It is best to have same-sex hamster groups for the classroom unless you are specifically breeding the hamsters for a project.

Note:  if you have a traditional classroom, make sure you obtain permission before purchasing and bringing your hamsters into the classroom.

Here are some curriculum ideas for homeschooling families or the traditional classroom:

• Have students calculate things such as the cost per feeding, the amount of time bags of bedding, boxes of food, boxes of treats will last, etc.  Have them measure the amount used each day and then figure an estimate of how long supplies last.
• Have them budget a certain amount of money for each month.  Have students keep track of how much money has been used and how much more is needed.  Have them think of ways to raise money for supplies and equipment, and then have them keep track of what is raised.
• Use the hamsters to estimate populations if hamsters have x number of pups per females per month or 6 weeks.  Have them do population projections based on different factors:  number of pups, number of litters per year, different survival rates, etc.
• Have students use different color variations and figure the probability of certain color combinations, etc.  Introduce either variables into the equations, such as color, fur type, fur length, etc.
• You can also use math to calculate the amount of profit realized if you sell the offspring and determine if it is profitable enough to do over and over.  Discuss how chain pet stores and smaller pet stores must compensate in order to turn a profit.  If you can make a profit, this might be used for classroom supplies or a class party.

Hamsters can add a lively part to any curriculum.  Having students care for the pets can also teach things such as responsibility and compassion.  If in a traditional classroom, you can have students take turns caring for the hamster (feeding, cleaning the cage, etc.) and also take the hamster home over long holidays (but only with the parent’s permission – having parents sign a permission slip is the best method for this).

When you first get a hamster, you often just start with one and might want to add more.  This might be possible, depending on the breed of hamster you have.  It is best to get litter mates and raise them together.  This will not eliminate fights and territorial squabbles, but it should help prevent serious injury or death.

Syrian hamsters (also known as golden or teddy bear hamsters) are extremely territorial and should be kept in solitary housing conditions.  They are not social at all and will sometimes fight to the death.  At the very least, one will become very dominant and will not allow the other to eat and roam freely.  If you are wondering how pet stores house so many Syrians together, it is because they are most likely litter mates and the population is constantly being sold and replenished.  (Even so, fights do occur, but they usually happen at night when no one is around.)  Females are especially vicious towards males, and mating pairs should only be allowed to be in the same cage for a short time while the female is in heat.  Once they have mated, remove the male and return him to his cage.  Syrians become territorial at around 5 or 6 weeks of age and begin to fight.  They should be separated at that time.

Dwarf hamsters are more social than the Syrians, but do not place hamsters of different species together because they will most likely fight to the death.  Dwarf hamsters are fine whether alone or in small groups.  If you have a mating pair, be sure to remove the male when they have a littler.  He will not harm the pups and might even help the female with them, but dwarf hamsters can become pregnant very soon after having a littler, so it is best to keep them apart so the female does not have litters in quick succession.  It is more practical to have a pair of same-sex hamsters than to have a male-female pair, unless you plan to breed them.

Dwarf hamsters tend to be more active if not housed alone, so having a litter mate for your dwarf hamster is not a bad idea.  Solitary dwarf hamsters tend to be less playful and active and not as interesting as a pet.

Even dwarf hamsters will fight, but this is not usually serious and is only done in order to establish a dominance hierarchy. You will hear a lot of squeaking and rolling around as they establish dominance and then it should be a bit quieter.

If you have a solitary dwarf hamster, it will be more difficult to introduce a new hamster later.  If you have a pair and one hamster dies, you might be able to introduce a new hamster at that time.

Whether you choose to have a solitary Syrian, many Syrians in separate housing, or lots of dwarf hamsters in the same housing area, your choice of how many hamsters to have is only limited by your space, resources and patience.

Realizing that hamsters have different range of senses than humans will help you to understand your hamster better.  Some of the limitations or amplitude of your hamster’s senses will affect his behaviour, and if you understand this, you will not be puzzled or frustrated by your pet’s behaviour.  It can also keep your hamster safe.

Eyesight: The hamster has very poor eyesight.  Hamsters are born blind and as adults they are only able to see a few inches in front of his nose.  This makes them unable to tell when they are in danger of falling, because they cannot see that far.  For this reason, cages with several levels are not recommended.  Hamsters cannot tell when the floor drops off and they could fall from an upper level.  This can cause broken bones, internal injuries and even death.  It also means that you should not let your pet perch on your shoulder or hold him while you are standing – again, they can fall or leap to a tragic injury or death.

Hearing: In order to make up for their poor eyesight, hamsters have an extraordinary sense of hearing.  They can hear and communicate with each other using frequencies that humans cannot hear.  Hamsters will often freeze when they hear an unusual sound, then sometimes sniff the air for more information.  Because a hamster has such keen hearing, you must speak softly to your pet and make sure your hamster is not kept in a noisy area of the house.  Do not allow other pets to make loud noises around your hamster.  Barking dogs, in particular, can cause extreme stress for your hamster.  Children should be taught not to be loud or squeal around your hamster, as well.

Hamsters have delicate ears that can easily tear.  Be sure to be gentle with your pet’s ears, and make sure they are not injured in fights with other hamsters.

Smell: Your hamster uses his sense of smell to recognize other hamsters, to tell whether a hamster is male or female, to find food, and also to detect pheromones in hamster social situations.  Hamsters actually communicate with each other with pheromones (chemicals that are secreted from the body).  Male and female Syrian hamsters mark their territory with scent glands that are located on their hips.  Sometimes the fur around these glands is a slightly different color.

Because their sense of smell is so keen, make sure your hands are clean when handling your pet.  Scents on your hands can either make your pet agitated or want to nibble you.  (Hand washing before and after handling your hamster also helps prevent the spread of disease.)

Do not allow cats to lay on your hamster’s living quarters.  The cat’s scent of will cause stress for your hamster.

As a general rule remember, that your hamster’s eyesight is poor, and his other senses are more enhanced in order to compensate.

Exercise is important for hamsters, just like it is for humans.  Daily exercise is a major factor in the continued good health of your pet.  Daily exercise can help prevent conditions such as obesity, diabetes and heart failure.

Syrian (or golden, teddy bear) hamsters have different activity cycles than dwarf hamsters.  Syrians are nocturnal, meaning they sleep during the day and the are active all night.  Dwarf hamsters are usually crepuscular, meaning that they are active in the early morning and early evening, with periods of sleeping in between.

There are many options for getting your hamster the proper amount of exercise.

Hamster wheels are the most popular option, and they are a convenient way to let a hamster run to his heart’s content in his own housing area.  There are different types of wheels, such as plastic and metal, free standing and those that attach to the side of the cage.  You can find many varieties at your local pet supply store or retailer.  If you have questions, ask a salesperson or search the Internet.

Exercise balls are specifically designed for hamsters and allow your pet to roam around the room or even the whole house and do plenty of running.  Exercise balls can be found in local pet supply stores and also some chain retail stores.  They are made of clear plastic and have air holes provided for ventilation.  There are also exercise balls that come designed to look like a car or other vehicle, but that is for the amusement of the owner and makes no difference to the hamster.

Some hamster owners allow their pets to run around the house without the aid of an exercise ball.  They might wall off a section of the floor or a counter and allow the hamster to roam freely.  This is not very safe and can cause great harm to your pet if he is accidentally stepped on or brushed off a counter.  There are also health concerns from letting your pet run along counters that are used for food preparation.  Hamsters can also chew on carpeting, which can contain chemicals that will harm them.  Hamsters can also ingest paint, wood and other household materials when allowed to roam freely.  Using a special container designed for hamsters is the best option.

Handling your hamster can be another option for getting your hamster to exercise.  Learn when your hamster is most active and try to play with your pet then, not by waking him up when you want to play.  Hamsters are notoriously cranky when awakened and will not be responsive to your attempts to play if he would rather sleep.

Allow your pet to crawl over your hands and body while you are seated or lying down.  Do not let your pet crawl on your shoulder or arms when you are standing – a fall from that height could seriously injure your hamster.

Children can also play with a hamster and provide exercise, but adult supervision should be provided.

As you probably already know, hamsters do things a lot differently than humans.  They sleep during the day.  They have babies quickly.  They use their tongues to bathe.  They run in wheels.  For hours and hours.  But here is something you might not know.

Your hamster has to eat his own poop in order to survive.

Small animals (like hamsters and rabbits) are hindgut fermenters.  This means they digest much of their food in the cecum (which is located where the large intestine and the small intestine meet.  It is in about the same location as the appendix in humans.)  (Cows also have to digest food a second time, but they do this by chewing their cud, which is brought back up from the stomach, not passed through the body and eliminated.

Beneficial micro flora ( bacteria and protozoa) live in the hamster’s digestive tract and help your pet digest food.  These micro flora produce by-products such as water-soluble vitamins and amino acids, which are necessary for the hamster to survive.  The nutrients that are produced add a great deal to a hamster’s balanced diet.

Some of the nutrients that are produced are absorbed directly into the hamster’s digestive tract.  However, some of these nutrients are not available to the hamster unless he consumes special droppings that contain the special nutrients manufactured by the micro flora.  The consumption of these special droppings is called coprophagy.

Sometimes called night feces, the soft feces containing this nutritional material that the hamster eliminates is often eaten directly from the anus, so you will probably never see these droppings.

The droppings that you normally see in the bottom of your hamster’s housing area are a different type, and they are often hard.  These are not of any nutritional value to your pet, so they are simply kept in the same spot that other waste is kept.   Consumption of these types of droppings could lead to illness due to harmful bacteria in urine and bedding.  (Do not worry – your hamster can tell the difference and will not consume the wrong type.)  The droppings left when a hamster is frightened or stressed are also of no nutritional value and not consumed.

Hamsters generally participate in this activity during the night or early morning hours, so you may not even see this happen, but some concerned hamster owners have become alarmed after seeing this process.  It is a perfectly natural activity and is crucial for the good health of your pet.  Do not be alarmed if you see your hamster engaging in this necessary behaviour.  Do not disturb them in this process, because this can cause stress and poor nutrition.  Stress is a major factor in causing illness and disease in hamsters, and nutrition is important in the prevention of illness.

Although it might be a practice you find nauseating, it is perfectly natural for your pet, and digesting food for a second time is crucial for his continued wellbeing.